Peni

Sweet milk and nothing else. The test of a gelateria.

Sicilian pistachios, ground with their skins on

Fior di latte, cracked dark chocolate through it

Bitter, barely sweetened, made without milk

Toasted almond and a pinch of sea salt

Burnt sugar, cream, coarse salt

Ratnagiri Alphonso, pressed rather than puréed

Raspberry, with a whisper of rosewater

Young coconut, water and flesh together

Sharp and dark, and not sweet at the finish

Sour cherry with lime zest

The soda, frozen onto a stick

Any two flavours, in a waffle cone

A scoop of fior di latte, drowned in espresso

Warm waffle, two scoops, hot chocolate

Three scoops, candied almond, whipped cream